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Safety Wiring Techniques
Safety
wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and
practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety
wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That
means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety
wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling
onto the track and causing damage to another bike or rider. It never hurts
to safety wire any critical part of your bike, such as controls, beyond
the requirements in the rulebook.
Now
that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how
to do it. First, go out and get the following items:
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Safety
wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are
available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC
Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl
tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier
with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must.
·
A can of stainless steel safety
wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall
size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028"
and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety
wire is available at most motorcycle shops.
·
A variable speed drill and a dozen
1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make
the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will
break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few
3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling.
How to drill
Except
for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter
pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they
can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill
press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a
press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those
little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the
drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also
cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you
need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are
surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a
drill bit when it gets dull.
 Most
bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first
figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs
of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might
opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin
found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so
that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used
on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through.
These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure.
 Hexagonal
nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process.
The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill
straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the
vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8
inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way
through the corner.
Allen
head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to
drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered
the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt
easier.
How to wire
Once
you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them
in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly.
Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing
can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread
treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or
lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an
insurance procedure.
When
wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to
wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a
fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners
together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is
to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show
the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired
to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually
wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item.
A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut.
 The
figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to
start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire
together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of
the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut
or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires
together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw
the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you
can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the
tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion
so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and
tight.
Always
discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can
flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety
wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you
have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it
doesn't protrude and create a hazard.
 This
figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring
to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or
bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening
direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches
just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire
should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job
is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in
succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump.
If
your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by
placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety
wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object.
Another
area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can
use the spring loaded clips that come stock on most bikes, or use small
hose clamps. If you use safety wire, be careful because you can cut
through the hose by using too much tension. Small zip ties will also work.
Water
lines are usually clamped with standard hose clamps. One precaution you
can take is to thread same safety wire through the slot on the screw of
the clamp, then attach the wire to the clamp. This will keep the hose
clamp from loosening.
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